After we say Zamboanga Metropolis is colourful, we’re not simply referring to the color-blocked sail of the vinta or the rosy glow of Santa Cruz Grande Island’s Pink Seaside. The vividness of Asia’s Latin Metropolis goes past what the eyes can see. Its intricate historical past as a settlement and kaleidoscopic mixture of cultures are greatest skilled by one other elementary sense — the sense of style.
Ever heard of curacha?
If it sounds acquainted, it’s most likely as a result of it reminds you of La Cucaracha, a Mexican people music a couple of cockroach that additionally grew to become fairly standard within the Philippines. Curacha (in Chavacano) and cucaracha (in Spanish) imply the identical — cockroach. And it’s no shock provided that Chavacano, Zamboanga’s dominant language, is a Spanish-based Creole.
However earlier than you lose your urge for food, know that we’re not going to ask you to go full Concern Think about Zamboanga. As an alternative, we’re inviting you to have a style of probably the most mouth-watering crustaceans that the area has to supply — spanner crabs!
Curacha bought its title due to its spiky, bushy look that kinda resembles you-know-what. However if you happen to look carefully, it kinda seems just like the love youngster of a large crab and a protracted lobster. And since it packs extra meat and extra taste than the crabs we’re used to, they’re wanted. Fortunately, they thrive within the waters surrounding the area.
For a lot of, one of the best place to have a style of curacha is Alavar Seafood Restaurant, which serves curacha cooked in and doused with its well-known specialty sauce, which is made out of coconut milk, aligue (crab roe paste) and varied spices. This tremendous wealthy sauce mixed with the seafood umami bombs which might be curacha, you’ll by no means style different crab dishes the identical means once more.
However be warned: It’s not low-cost. You possibly can order curacha by the kilo (minimal 1 kg). The final time we dined right here, a kilo of it in alavar sauce prices P1500 to P1700, relying on the scale of the crabs.
The sauce alone is unforgettable. It’s so standard that vacationers drop by Alavar on the way in which to the airport to take house frozen packs of it.
Alavar Seafood Restaurant
Tackle: 173 Don Alfaro Avenue, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Each day, 10:00 am – 10:00 pm
Specialty: Curacha in Alavar Sauce
However if you happen to’d quite take house freshly caught curacha, head over to Aderes Flea Market in Guiwan. You should buy raw curacha at a lower cost right here, together with lobsters and different seafood.
How acquainted are you with Moro dishes? A bit bit? Not fairly? In no way?
If you happen to reside in Metro Manila or close by areas, you most likely haven’t tried it. (Or in my case earlier than my Zamboanga journey, not even heard of it.) We’re used to dishes from Luzon and Visayas. Many people are much more acquainted with overseas fare. So when in Zamboanga, have a style of Moro delicacies!
Greater than a 3rd of Zamboanga Metropolis’s inhabitants follow Islam. The Moros, Filipino Muslims, have developed a meals tradition that’s fascinatingly totally different from different areas. Whereas garlic, onions and ginger stay frequent elements, the Moros prefer to additionally use spices like galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime and turmeric, that are extra regular in our maritime Southeast Asian neighbors.
You’ll additionally discover that the Tausugs love utilizing coconut milk and — get this — burnt or charred coconut, which supplies lots of its dishes its black look. It does look just a little bit intimidating at first look, however belief me, it’s tremendous scrumptious. It doesn’t style burnt in any respect, however it offers depth and complexity to its style that’s fairly onerous to explain. You’ve gotta style it your self.
In Zamboanga Metropolis, probably the most handy place for vacationers to pattern Moro dishes is Bay Tal Mal. It’s as a result of they serve latal (P959), which is a platter of assorted Tausug dishes together with the next:
- Tiyulah itum (tiyula itum or tiulah itum, actually “black soup”), beef in black broth made with burnt coconut and spices.
- Beef kulma, beef cubes stewed in a curry sauce.
- Piyassak, beef liver cubes cooked with pounded spices, charred coconut and coconut milk
- Hen piyanggang, hen marinated in burnt coconut and varied spices after which grilled.
- Hen kaliya, hen stewed in coconut milk with lemongrass, turmeric, ginger and different spices.
- Beef adobo
- Fried fish
- Fried shrimp or squid
- Kiyaliya kapaya, papaya; or cucumber sambal (the sambal is so fab delish!)
Though not on the menu, I believe one of many dishes on our platter was utak-utak (fried fish cake).
You possibly can take pleasure in this platter of delicacies with rice. However we normally add a plate of mee goreng (P259), which is served with onerous boiled egg. We simply love mie goreng so we order it every time we spot it on the menu. (LOL.) However they’ve much more gadgets on its menu.
After I tried it for the primary time, Bay Tal Mal was nonetheless situated alongside Mayor Jaldon Avenue. Nevertheless it has since moved to the 4th degree of SM Mindpro.
Bay Tal Mal Restaurant
Tackle: 4th flooring, SM Mindpro, La Purisima Avenue, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10:00 am – 8:00 pm; Friday, 9:00 am – 5:00 pm; Saturday-Sunday, 10:00 am – 9:00 pm
Specialty: Latal (platter of Tausug dishes)
One other restaurant that serves this Tausug tray of goodness is Dennis Espresso Backyard, located close to the airport. Right here, they name it dulang (P1100), however it’s mainly the identical. However whereas Bay Tal Mal’s platter has 10 totally different dishes, Dennis’s has six.
Talking of Dennis Espresso Backyard…
Dennis Espresso Backyard‘s roots will be traced again all the way in which to 1962 Jolo, Sulu, the place a small cafe referred to as Omar’s Place was established. Sixty years later, the title has modified and a number of branches have sprouted together with this one in Zamboanga Metropolis.
We already talked about the dulang or latal that they serve right here. However it’s extra well-known for one thing else — you guessed it — COFFEE! Dennis Espresso Backyard takes satisfaction of their genuine espresso referred to as the kahawa sug, which will be served sizzling or iced. It’s extra on the robust finish of the spectrum, so if you happen to favor daring espresso, this could possibly be for you! The iced model, nonetheless, is served with milk.
Other than Sulu espresso, it is usually standard for his or her bangbang sug or native Tausug pastries. We labored up an urge for food earlier that day so we determined to order the entire gadgets on their snack menu! Apart from, we actually wished to attempt all of them! Every merchandise prices P95 now. The final time we visited (2022), it was solely P65.
- Jualan saing, deep-fried bananas with sweetened coconut dip (consider it as a deconstructed banana que)
- Jualan panggih, deep-fried candy potatoes with sweetened coconut dip (form of a deconstructed camote que)
- Daral, crepe with candy filling product of coconut (filling tastes like bukayo)
- Panggih-panggih, deep-fried flour rings
- Wadjit, glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk (unavailable throughout our go to)
- Pitis, glutinous rice flour desserts with coconut filling, wrapped in banana leaves
- Patulakan, pounded rice with milk and grated coconut, wrapped in banana leaves
- Biyaki, grated candy corn desserts, wrapped in corn husks then steamed
We additionally ordered pastil, which is analogous to empanada with togue filling and served with a candy and spicy sauce. (We additionally tried pastil in Tawi-tawi however it had bihon noodles as filling.)
Out of all of this, we loved jualan saing, daral, biyaki and panggih-panggih probably the most!
Dennis Espresso Backyard
Branches: San Jose Street (Baliwasan), KCC Mall Zamboanga Metropolis, Yubengco (Tetuan), and Southern Heights (La Paz)
Specialty: Kahawa sug (Sulu espresso) and Bangbang sug (Tausug pastries)
As we explored Zamboanga Metropolis, we couldn’t assist however discover that plenty of institutions serve so-called satti. We even noticed a variety of regular-looking homes with indicators that learn, “We serve satti”. It bought us extremely curious! Satti appears like satay (hen satay, beef satay), so I had my concepts on what it could possibly be. However many satti signages had illustrations of bowls, not sticks of meat, which confused us at first.
Nicely, nicely, it turned out that satti is certainly just like satay (grilled skewered meat). However on this a part of the world, it’s normally served half-dipped in a bowl of red-orange spicy sauce with cubes of molded rice. And to my shock, that is truly a breakfast favourite! Nothing beats a spicy kick to begin the day!
After we requested the locals (largely tricycle drivers) for one of the best satti place within the metropolis, all fingers pointed at Jimmy’s Satti Meals Haus. Sadly, as a consequence of time constraints, we did not pay a go to. Too unhealthy!
(That stated, we had been capable of attempt satti at Dennis Espresso Backyard! I’m a sucker for something grilled and spicy, so it was love at first chunk for me. I nonetheless want I bought to attempt Jimmy’s although. However I suppose this offers me a motive to return to Zamboanga!)
Jimmy’s Satti Meals Haus
Tackle: Pilar Avenue, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working hours: 3:30 am – 5:30 pm
Specialty: Satti
If you happen to’re craving pork, you could be shocked to know that one space in Zamboanga has mastered the artwork of constructing lechon! Sure, complete pig roasted to perfection! Right here in Tetuan, lechon is offered at kiosks stationed alongside the highway. And there are many them right here!
I used to be fairly shocked to find out about it at first as a result of the town has a big Muslim inhabitants. Earlier than setting foot right here for the primary time, I initially (mistakenly) assumed that pork — a staple protein in Pinoy kitchens elsewhere — could be notably absent in most elements of the town as a result of it’s forbidden in Islam. However there it was, a road lined with pork lechon stalls promoting kilo after kilo of suckling pig.
After we requested locals for suggestions, one institution that was persistently talked about was Prince Tasty Lechon. They’ve a number of stalls all through the town, however we selected the one in Tetuan, only a brief stroll from Alavar.
Like others beside it, Prince is a small stall with a suckling pig on show as a workers member chops away. You possibly can ask for a chunk of the crispy pores and skin to have a style. A kilo prices P550 (as of January 2025, it’s now P600). You too can order half a kilo, which is at P350. You possibly can have it as an entire slab or have it chopped.
Tetuan lechon is commonly in comparison with Cebu’s extra well-known model. When you style it, it’s not obscure why. It’s simply so flavorful! The pores and skin is tremendous crispy however not onerous; it breaks with the gentlest of bites. The meat is moist, juicy and tender. The mixture of calamansi, garlic, onions, pepper, bay leaf and different herbs seeps so deep into the meat. We weren’t given any sauce. Unsure if it truly is eaten with out it or the workers simply forgot. However regardless, there’s no want for it.
If a kilo or half a kilo remains to be an excessive amount of for you, you possibly can order a combol meal from Prince Foodcourt, situated on Estrada Avenue, only a brief stroll from their stall alongside Don Alfaro Avenue. For P150, the set contains 200 grams of lechon, two cups of rice, a small bowl of soup, and a drink.
Prince Tasty Lechon Fastfood
Tackle: Estrada Avenue, Tetuan, Zamboanga Metropolis
Open: 9:00 am – 9:00 pm
To this point, we’ve already coated largely essential programs and heavy proteins. How about we transfer on to dessert?
Right here in Zamboanga Metropolis, no different dessert has reached the legendary standing of the knickerbocker. The what?
Knickerbocker! Consider it because the fruitier, more healthy stepsister of the halo-halo. This loopy colourful concoction is a mixture of jellies and contemporary fruits like watermelon, apple, pineapply and mango, drizzled with condensed milk and topped with strawberry ice cream. It’s vibrant, candy, and creamy, excellent for laundry down no matter lunch or dinner you had.
Today, you possibly can take pleasure in a cup from distributors at Paseo del Mar, however if you happen to’re after the unique, head over to Hacienda de Palmeras Lodge and Restaurant, broadly thought to be the institution that invented this tropical dessert. The restaurant is ready in a backyard in a quiet nook of the town, however nonetheless simply accessible by jeepney or tricycle.
Hacienda de Palmeras Lodge and Restaurant
Tackle: Pasonanca Street, Sta. Maria, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Wednesday-Friday, 10:00 am – 10:00 pm; Saturday-Tuesday, 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Specialty: Seafood and Knickerbocker
In fact! Any TPT journey isn’t full with out pillaging the parks and again alleys for some good old school road meals! These on a regular basis accessible munchies inform lots concerning the place, its individuals, and its tradition. You will discover road meals anyplace, particularly in busy areas like the general public market and across the metropolis corridor.
Typical Pinoy faves like kikiam, fish balls and banana que can be found, however you’ll additionally discover one thing distinctive to the area. My favourite is chikalang. No, not chika lang. Chikalang! It’s a glutinous rice cake rolled in brown sugar. It’s similar to pilipit or karioka, solely greater, denser, heavier and really very purple.
It’s normally among the many many gadgets on peddlers’ bilao. We had it at Paseo del Mar!
R.T. Lim Boulevard additionally hosts a variety of road meals distributors. A number of the road meals decisions are satay or “ihaw-ihaw”, pastil, and lokot-lokot. You’ll additionally discover balut and penoy as quickly because the solar begins to set.
On our final go to, we seen locals promoting one thing in styrofoam containers. Curious, we approached one and requested what was inside. To our (pleasant) shock, it was mie goreng! It’s served with fried egg on prime and a calamansi on the facet, and drizzled with sizzling sauce. At the moment, we snagged it for under P35!
Coincidentally, we had been simply speaking about craving noodles simply moments earlier than so we didn’t even give it some thought! We additionally had a pleasant dialog with Kuya Jul, the vendor, as we stuffed our face with noodles.
It’s fully doable to attempt all of the eating places and meals spots talked about above by yourself. In your itinerary, you possibly can insert a lunch or dinner cease, whichever is closest to the world you’re exploring that day. (We’ll publish a pattern itinerary, so be sure you examine again quickly.)
But when you need a extra insightful expertise, you could be a part of a Meals and Tradition Tour, provided by iTravel Vacationer Lane, led by Errold Bayona.
It was truly Errold who launched to us these superb foodie locations years in the past. So once I just lately returned to Zamboanga, I already knew the place to go to eat.
It’s possible you’ll contact them by any of the next:
We paid for the entire meals featured on this put up.
We’ve tried three totally different resorts in Zamboanga and all of them had been first rate and nice:
In case you have an even bigger finances, you might also take a look at these different properties within the space:
2025 2 1 – Up to date information together with opening hours and costs
2022 6 5 – First uploaded
Phrases by: Yosh Dimen
Images by: Yosh Dimen & Vins Carlos