Steam rolled off the copper-ringed picket bowl and the candy aroma of freshly cooked rice rose towards us. I leaned in for a style. The grains had been tender, pleasantly sticky, and subtly brightened with rice vinegar. Our host, Prairie Stuart-Wolff, confirmed us moist our fingers with evenly vinegared water and gently form the rice into small balls that might turn out to be temari sushi.
“It must maintain its form so you’ll be able to pack it and transport it,” she stated. “However for those who squeeze too onerous, the rice turns into this glutinous ball.”
After shaping, we draped a contemporary kinome, or sansho-pepper leaf, over every pillow of rice and topped it with a slice of sea bream so translucent we may nonetheless see the herb beneath it. I sneaked a chunk: earthy, natural, delicate, candy. It tasted like spring.
We had been standing within the open, wood-paneled kitchen of Mirukashi Salon, a hyper-seasonal culinary retreat set within the hilly countryside of Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s 4 major islands. It was March, and I had include my associate, Laila, in hopes of catching the primary buds of Japan’s famed cherry-blossom season.
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Prairie Stuart-Wolff/Courtesy of Mirukashi Salon; Rebekah Peppler
A gradual drizzle had greeted us the day earlier than once we stepped off the prepare within the close by metropolis of Fukuoka. Early springtime, Stuart-Wolff informed us, is a turbulent season in Kyushu. “We get a number of rain. We get a number of wind. Spring is combating to actually bloom.”
Stuart-Wolff has a peaceful, assured air. Ask her a query (I requested many) and he or she has a prepared and thorough reply. That hadn’t at all times been the case, she informed me. When she first moved to Japan from Maine in 2007 together with her now spouse, Hanako Nakazato, who’s a 14th-generation ceramist, she didn’t communicate a phrase of Japanese. Since then, she has not solely realized the language however has additionally turn out to be steeped within the island’s culinary traditions—its recipes, methods, and information—and now passes them alongside to guests.
On our five-day retreat, Laila and I had been joined by 5 different vacationers. We foraged for watercress; cooked a sizzling pot with wild boar, seaweed, and enoki mushrooms; and went on subject journeys to fulfill artisans, small producers, and cooks at their ateliers and eating places.
Prairie Stuart-Wolff/Courtesy of Mirukashi Salon
After we awakened on the Karatsu Seaside Lodge on the primary morning, the rain had stopped and the skies had been a brilliant blue. To take benefit, Stuart-Wolff determined that, as an alternative of the deliberate pottery tour, we might participate in hanami, the Japanese customized of gathering beneath a cherry-blossom tree and admiring its ephemeral magnificence. “They’re celebrated culturally as a result of they’re so fleeting,” she stated. “We pack a picnic and go sit beneath the cherry blossoms, and simply deliberately experience that feeling.”
After our grasp class in making temari sushi, we packed the rice balls into tidy packing containers and stashed them into baskets together with chilled bottles of sake, carafes of tea, jars of umeboshi (salted bitter plums), and a clutch of ceramic cups. However it turned out the blossoms weren’t fairly prepared. After a half-hour driving round in search of cherry bushes in bloom, we settled for a scenic spot beneath a tree with tiny pink buds overlooking Karatsu Bay. The picnic was pleasant, regardless of the absence of full blooms, and I capped it off with a lightweight nap beneath the solar.
Rain and wind returned the next day, so we gathered again within the kitchen for a lesson on dashi—the important broth of Japanese cooking, which we made with kombu (a seaweed harvested in Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island) and katsuobushi, or dried bonito flakes (produced in Kagoshima, within the south). The important thing to drawing out the umami and sweetness from the kombu with out the bitterness, Stuart-Wolff defined, is to take away the seaweed simply earlier than the water reaches a boil. The katsuobushi is then added and steeped for a minute earlier than being strained out.
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Prairie Stuart-Wolff/Courtesy of Mirukashi Salon
Over the following few days, we made probably the most of breaks within the rain to forage for slender stalks of tsukushi (horsetail), as properly as tightly coiled warabi (bracken fern) that we used to make tempura. We spent one afternoon at Itoaguri, an previous sake store within the metropolis of Itoshima, tasting totally different types of namazake, or unpasteurized sake.
On one other day we visited Monohanako, the pottery studio run by Nakazato, Stuart-Wolff’s spouse, which was situated simply behind the salon. Her trendy, minimalist items—resembling a black bowl with a double lip and a beige cup with a crackled, rustlike patina—had already made frequent appearances on the salon. “Aesthetics play such a key position within the expertise of consuming in Japan,” Stuart-Wolff stated as we sipped glowing sake out of Nakazato’s white-glazed goblets. Simply as the selection of elements shifts with each season, so too does the selection of vessel. “I love how they’re in live performance with one another.”
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Prairie Stuart-Wolff/Courtesy of Mirukashi Salon
On our closing day, we had one other break within the rain, so we walked a couple of minutes to a terraced plot of land with chestnut bushes the place the salon’s new location was being constructed. I took be aware, and started dreaming of a motive to return. Throughout my go to, the salon was set inside Nakazato’s household residence, however the brand new area opened final October, simply in time for the rice harvest season. It options an open kitchen with an enormous spherical desk, and there are plans for a vegetable backyard.
Strolling again, with views of Karatsu Bay within the distance, I requested Stuart-Wolff if she had seen any similarities amongst her visitors. She paused to think about. “I’m actually shocked by the variety of individuals on their first journey to Japan,” she stated. “I thought it might be individuals who had been returning and in search of new experiences. However what I’ve realized is that we will supply a context and a lens into the tradition.”
I may attest to that, it being my first journey to Japan, too. Whereas we went on to go to the traditional temples of Kyoto and the intense, busy streets of Tokyo, it was in Kyushu—and particularly, on the giant spherical desk within the salon’s kitchen—that I felt most linked to the deeply rooted culinary traditions of Japan.
4 nights at Mirukashi Salon from $3,550 per particular person, all-inclusive.
A model of this story first appeared within the Might 2025 concern of Journey + Leisure beneath the headline “Spring Awakening.”