A 2019 Solo Street Journey in Colorado’s Western Slope

I’ve a confession… Whereas I work as an editor right here at Street Journeys for Households, I’ve solely taken one “actual” highway journey myself. It was again in Could 2019, which didn’t really feel that way back till just lately.

My life is rather a lot completely different now. In September 2020, round 15 months after this highway journey, I moved out of my house state of Colorado to Los Angeles. I’ve lived in Hollywood all 5 years since, two of these with no automotive (typically difficult in such an enormous, car-centric metropolis).

I typically look again on that highway journey with admiration (maybe a little bit envy) of my youthful self — the liberty to journey lots of of miles to Colorado’s Western Slope on a whim and a pivotal reminiscence fostering my ongoing pursuit of out of doors journey. Since I don’t suppose I’ll be planning one other highway journey any time quickly, I made a decision to make a journey down reminiscence lane (with the assistance of my hefty Instagram story archive).

2019 Flashback: Discovering My Footing in Denver

In Could 2019, I had lived in Denver for almost one 12 months. I used to be renting a studio in  Capitol Hill, Denver’s most populous neighborhood. I used to be nonetheless considerably new to the massive metropolis life after shifting from Fort Collins, my faculty city and residential for years after (solely about 10 miles from the place I lived rising up). I initially thought that my motivations round this journey had been one thing like, “higher discover the state whereas I’m nonetheless right here,” however that’s not proper. I didn’t resolve to maneuver to California till later in 2019.

This was an impulsive selection: I dedicated to the solo highway journey about two weeks prior, and the motive was far much less poetic. A scheduling fluke at work randomly gave me 4 consecutive days off, summer season was upon us, and I didn’t wish to waste that point off.

My mother and father had been all the time out of doors fanatics, typically attempting to foster that very same pleasure in my sister and me. I knew Colorado was recognized for scenic qualities, however I didn’t really recognize it for myself (paradoxically) till a couple of years earlier than I left.

A Solo Street Journey’s Influence

I now acknowledge this solo highway journey as a foundational second, reminding me simply how a lot I like out of doors recreation as an grownup.

Later that summer season, I skipped Independence Day celebrations within the metropolis to camp as an alternative. I additionally climbed my first fourteener. The subsequent summer season, my choices to soak in my house state earlier than shifting had been restricted by the pandemic. I compromised by near-weekly hikes, with a choose few associates in my quarantine circle.

This expertise in all probability helped gas my drive to go to a good friend dwelling in California for my birthday in October 2019, a go to that confirmed my resolution to maneuver there.

(Unexpectedly) Planning a Solo Street Journey

I’d finished loads of tenting, however by no means alone. I used to be curious to try to open to longer drives. I solely thought of locations I hadn’t visited. The brief discover meant fewer reservations and extra restricted choices. It was simply after Memorial Day weekend so I wasn’t completely out of luck.

Tip: Lots of Colorado’s high tenting spots have walk-in choices, but it surely’s dangerous to financial institution on them — particularly throughout peak seasons. Even reservations can refill quick, so begin trying ASAP to keep away from lacking out on any of your high picks. Many nationwide parks e-book out as much as six months upfront.

In case you may help it, give your self greater than two weeks (a minimum of a month, if not a number of, relying in your most well-liked vacation spot).

I settled on two close by spots on the opposite aspect of the state, Colorado’s Western Slope, an immense area beginning simply west of Denver and protecting a lot of the state as much as the Utah border. I appeared towards the state’s southwest nook, particularly Ridgway State Park and Black Canyon of the Gunnison Nationwide Park (with some aspect quests alongside the best way).

After reserving my campsites, I linked up with my mother and father to snag some tenting necessities. The day earlier than I left, I ended by Jiffy Lube for an oil change. I used to be winging it, however I used to be prepared.

Wednesday, Could 29, 2019

Begin: Capitol Hill, Denver

Finish: Ridgway State Park, Ouray County

Drive time: 5-and-a-half hours

Stops: Ouray

My Kia Soul was already packed, so I solely needed to brush my tooth and dress earlier than hitting the highway round 4:15 a.m.

You will have two choices to get to Ridgway State Park from Denver, each about the identical size of time relying on visitors. I took I-70, a straight shot west earlier than ultimately heading south, on the drive there. I might take Highways 285 and 50 on the best way again to Denver — would possibly as properly for some selection.

Tip: Touring from Denver? Depart early to keep away from visitors. Close by highways can simply again up as main junctions for commuters, vacationers, and truck drivers. After about 7 a.m., it’s doubtless you’ll endure some bumper-to-bumper motion.

Simply after 5, I used to be surrounded by mountains and making nice time. The truth is, I used to be cruising a little bit too effectively… As I used to be closing in on Grand Junction, about an hour of driving to go, I noticed police lights behind me. I checked out my speedometer and realized I used to be going 82 in a 65 mph zone. About 20 minutes later, I ended by a fuel station humbled by my first (and solely to at the present time) rushing ticket.

Let my mistake be a lesson: Finally, the freeway might be vacant, and you may simply lose observe of how briskly you’re going. With fewer vehicles on the highway, rushing will completely get you pulled over.

Ouray

I used to be in proximity to Ridgway by round 10 a.m, so I drove an additional 20 minutes to Ouray.

My household took a visit to Telluride once I was 11, positioned on the opposite aspect of the mountains towering over Ouray to the west. My recollections are fuzzy, however I primarily recall the surroundings. Whereas Telluride has a inhabitants of round 2,500, Ouray is even smaller at roughly 900 folks — no shock when you’re really there.

You’ll see the “Welcome to Ouray” signal heading south earlier than Freeway 550 shifts into Fundamental Avenue. Roughly one other mile and also you begin to enter the thick of Ouray. It’s about six blocks by six blocks; I solely had a couple of hours to get some meals and stroll round, so Ouray was splendid.

Ouray Eats

My first cease was Ouray Wing Firm. I’m vegan, and I figured that it might be difficult to seek out plentiful choices in such small cities. Fortunately, I used to be in a position to modify one in every of their burritos to suit my weight loss program. The restaurant is now closed, however Ouray Brewery might have been a greater wager anyway. Simply down the block on Fundamental Avenue, they’ve a considerable menu together with Not possible patties and vegan-friendly salads (with a modification or two). As somebody who usually turns to Thai eating places in Los Angeles for vegan take out, Thai Chili would have been one other protected various.

Whereas my choices in Ouray could also be pretty restricted, it has tons of eating places to fulfill your cravings.

For a tremendous eating expertise with modern American delicacies, try Brickhouse 737 and Style Ouray. You’ll additionally discover Artisan Bakery, jam-packed with savory and candy breakfast treats. In case you’re within the temper for pizza, Corkscrew Tavern Pizzeria has you coated. Mi Mexico is within the combine for vacationers craving tacos, burritos, and the like.

I additionally stopped by Mouses Sweets & Espresso earlier than heading out to Ridgway. Sadly, I didn’t pattern both of their titular merchandise and settled for an natural tea to calm my abdomen after downing fuel station espresso all morning. The ambiance was a spotlight, proving the calming vibes I wanted alongside spectacular views.

Ouray Buying and Actions

Naturally, most of Ouray’s purchasing caters to vacationers.

You’ll discover quite a few memento shops stocked with Ouray merch, together with reward retailers like Bloom Fashionable Mercantile and Chief Ouray Buying and selling Submit. I wasn’t actually out there for his or her wares like jewellery, house decor, and domestically made artwork. However for those who’re after one thing really distinctive, these are some nice locations to peruse.

I spent most of my time at RB Horsetraders vintage store. I didn’t stroll away with something, however soaking in all of their artifacts from years previous was sufficient for me. I additionally stopped by Columbine Mineral Store to admire the numerous minerals discovered inside the Rocky Mountain Area.

For these making a day (or extra) of it, Ouray has quite a few parks, sizzling springs, and trails close by for vacationers wanting to discover its environment.

It additionally hosts extra area of interest spots just like the Ouray Alchemist Pharmacy Museum, the place you possibly can “take a guided tour again in time” to expertise the pharmacies of the Wild West crammed with hand-blown pharmacy bottles crammed with their authentic medicine collected over 50 years.

Ridgway State Park

After recharging in Ouray, I zipped over to Ridgway State Park a little bit after midday — only a 20 minute drive. Ridgway Reservoir is a key characteristic, with gorgeous views of the San Juan Mountains all through the park.

My plan for Ridgway? Ease in with a stability of leisure and exploration. I took benefit of the climbing, as Ridgway State Park comes with 15.6 miles of trails with entry to greater than 40 miles of further trails through the Ridgway Space Path and Dennis Weaver Path techniques.

For these after extra, Ridgway presents water actions like boating, water snowboarding, swimming, paddleboarding, fishing, and kayaking on the reservoir.

The park presents year-round tenting with 253 websites for RVs, trailers, and tents, together with ADA-accessible and walk-in choices. I’ve virtually all the time camped in tents and did for this journey.

Once I climbed a fourteener later that summer season, I invited my first (and to at the present time solely) yurt tenting expertise. Had I made a decision to attempt it out sooner, Ridgway would have been a strong contender with its reservable yurts.

Afternoon rain is typical in Colorado throughout the spring and summer season. Regardless, I used to be dismayed as soon as the sunshine drizzle arrived, fluctuating in depth till after I went to mattress. I used to be in a position to preserve a hearth to get pleasure from by the night (largely from the quilt of my tent).

With one other day forward of me and a few gentle climbing plans within the morning, I referred to as it an evening round 11 and fell asleep to a film preloaded on my laptop computer.

Tip: Colorado is vulnerable to wildfires. Relying on the chance at a given time, campfires will not be permitted in Ridgway and different parks. Examine on-line or ask a park ranger earlier than banking on it.

Tenting Charges

Tent tenting websites: From $28/evening
Electrical hookup websites: From $36/evening
Full hookup websites: From $41/evening
Yurt tenting websites: From $90/evening

Day 2

Thursday, Could 30, 2019

Begin: Ridgway State Park

Finish: Black Canyon of the Gunnison Nationwide Park, Montrose County

Drive time: 40 minutes

Stops: Montrose

I wakened early with the solar and took my time at my campsite. After a small breakfast and wandering the paths a bit extra, I packed up for my second major vacation spot: Black Canyon of the Gunnison Nationwide Park. However first, lunch.

Montrose

Montrose is way bigger and extra populated than Ouray, with round 21,000 whole residents. I hadn’t deliberate to go to forward of time. Relatively, it was my greatest choice to seize meals and refill on fuel as I made my manner up Freeway 550 to pivot east on Freeway 50 for Black Canyon.

Montrose additionally got here with some beautiful views, surrounded by the Uncompahgre Plateau to the west and the identical snow-capped San Juan Mountains I admired in Ridgway.

Montrose Eats

I used to be met with related challenges discovering vegan choices in Montrose. (Keep in mind, this was 2019. I think about Montrose and different communities within the space doubtless provide extra plant-based choices at this time.)

Like Ouray (and most cities in Colorado), Montrose has a group of breweries with sizable meals menus. Colorado Boy Pizzeria & Brewery, Pomona Brewing Firm, and Horsefly Brewing Firm are a couple of standouts.

If I had finished a extra thorough search after regaining cell service in Montrose, I might need loved the Nepali and Indian delicacies at Himalayan Pun Hill Kitchen.

Possibly not the very best for vegans, however Montrose additionally has a group of steakhouses and Latin-inspired choices.

I went with a burger joint that had veggie patties. I wasn’t blown away, however the metropolis had me spoiled. Actually, I used to be simply blissful to have some actual gas for climbing later. I can’t verify with any certainty what restaurant this was, with solely a hazy reminiscence and one blurry photograph of my feast to reference.

Montrose Buying and Actions

In contrast to Ouray, Montrose was a short cease. It’s not that there wasn’t something to do. The truth is, it’s the other: I had restricted time, needed to get to Black Canyon, and effectively making my manner by Montrose wasn’t reasonable.

There’s climbing and fishing close by, however for those who don’t wish to stray too far, the Historic Downtown ought to be in your listing. Right here, you’ll discover a few of Montrose’s purchasing highlights: from trendy retailers like SheShe Boutique and Luxe Designs to the native handmade items at retailers like Mosaic or the ample hidden treasures at Nation Aptitude Vintage Emporium.

Montrose additionally boasts a number of historical past museums, together with Ute Indian Museum, Museum of the Mountain West, and Montrose Nation Historic Museum.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison Nationwide Park

I made it to Black Canyon of the Gunnison Nationwide Park simply earlier than midday. Whereas Ridgway was a strong preliminary cease, it was clear I saved the very best for final.

Black Canyon was essentially the most memorable a part of this journey. I hadn’t (and nonetheless haven’t) been to the Grand Canyon, however the sheer immensity of this pure marvel gave me a style. The truth is, many consult with Black Canyon as “Colorado’s Grand Canyon.” The identify was impressed by the black shadows typically shrouding the canyon partitions. It options among the world’s oldest uncovered Precambrian rock, relationship again almost 2 billion years.

I used to be in awe virtually instantly, the extremely steep cliffs greeting me as I drove to my campsite. The Gunnison River and pure forces carved the canyon over hundreds of thousands of years, permitting campers and hikers to see roughly 2,000 toes under all through the park.

The Journey Spotlight: Climbing Black Canyon

Desperate to hike, I shortly arrange my campsite earlier than hitting the paths. I’m unsure what number of miles I trekked that day, however I began round 12:30 and located myself again at my campsite round 4:30 p.m.

I’ll flip to the supply materials to explain the way it felt: my testimony on the time through Instagram.

Simply after I began climbing at 1 p.m., I shared my sentiments on a photograph of the canyon, “This was a [great] cease. I really feel [very] small… in like an empowering manner,” then a video, “I’m blown away but in addition kinda horrified.”

It was a type of cases in nature the place I felt extra grounded in my humanity, confronting one of many planet’s numerous feats full drive.

I made my manner across the one-mile Rim Rock Nature Path, a comparatively flat path alongside the canyon’s rim, after which the two-mile Oak Flat Loop Path, which comes with views of the panorama under the canyon rim.

The second path’s route was very slender and steep, performing as a strong reminder to take it sluggish and soak every part in safely. Whereas I had no drawback, I might hesitate to suggest the Oak Flat Loop Path to households with youthful hikers.

The internal canyon has no maintained or marked trails. I wasn’t ready, however skilled hikers who plan forward might contemplate it.

Climbing is the primary motion at Black Canyon, and also you’ll doubtless spot some wildlife. Whereas enjoyable at my campsite that night, I appeared over to see a doe greeting me within the thick of the wilderness. I didn’t see any bears throughout my keep, however they’re certainly within the space (as indicated by the bear lockers at every campsite, which I completely used for any meals and drinks).

Tenting Charges

North Rim and East Portal Campground: $20/day; tent tenting, reservations not required
South Rim Campground: $34 (electrical) and $20 (non-electric/day); reservations required

Day 3

Friday, Could 31, 2019

Begin: Black Canyon of the Gunnison Nationwide Park

Finish: Capitol Hill, Denver

Drive time: 5 hours

Heading House

Subsequent, the second-longest stretch of driving on the journey to cross the end line.

I used to be up round 6:30 a.m. and stayed for about an hour earlier than the drive commenced. Exiting the park and hitting the freeway, I felt lighter and refreshed — exactly what I needed out of this journey.

The drive to Denver was largely uneventful, although I appreciated the contemporary surroundings heading east on Freeway 50 earlier than pivoting north on Freeway 115. As unimaginable this journey was, I used to be relieved to see the Denver metropolis skyline.

My cats greeted me as I threw my luggage on my mattress, peeled off my garments, and took a much-needed bathe. That afternoon was largely spent in mattress, relishing in my sore muscle tissue and thanking my previous self for diligently making use of sunscreen.

Six Years Later…

Trying again, I really feel a sure satisfaction for my youthful self. I used to be blissfully unaware of the adventures that will comply with — throughout my final 12 months in Colorado, navigating a solo transfer throughout the nation throughout a world pandemic, and every part that got here after.

I acknowledge an identical curiosity in myself then that’s solely grown with time. In my early LA days with restricted neighborhood and ample COVID restrictions, I took any and each alternative to take a drive and discover my new house. I nonetheless bounce on all alternatives, huge or small, to lean into any potential escapade that presents itself in my day by day life.

The subsequent highway journey must wait till I safe a automotive (and I’m pretty content material with out one for now). Till then, I’ll proceed to fondly look again at this highway journey — strolling, biking, or bussing — with that very same sense of marvel I fostered in Could 2019.

Photographs by Keegan Williams 

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Concerning the Writer: Keegan Williams is a contract editor and author primarily based in Los Angeles. They’ve written for publications together with HuffPost, LGBTQ Nation, and Excessive Occasions. Keegan has a ardour for health. They’re additionally immersed in LA’s underground dance scene and dabble as a DJ with a give attention to percussive, high-energy techno and digital music genres.

You will discover them at keeganmwilliams.com or on Instagram @promwitch.

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