For Journey + Leisure’s column Touring As, we’re speaking to vacationers about what it’s wish to discover the world via their distinctive views. We chatted with journey blogger Sarah Toyin, who identifies as Black and British, about her experiences—each constructive and adverse—whereas spending a yr instructing in Korea and touring all through Asia. Right here’s her story…
I liked airports after I was younger—being in a single meant one other journey journey was about to start. Though I used to be born in London, my household is Nigerian, so we used to return and go to very often, and we might additionally take journeys round Europe.
Once I was in secondary faculty, we moved to Kent, which wasn’t probably the most various space on the time. I used to be the one Black lady in my grade, and that’s after I first skilled racism of any sort. At 16, I went to a global boarding faculty in Ghana, after which I moved again to the U.Ok. for faculty.
These early years formed how I view journey right now. I obtained to see completely different individuals and methods of life, so I’ve discovered to adapt to new environments. After school, I labored for 2 years at my college—however I used to be on the lookout for one other sort of expertise, one which allowed me to journey internationally and now have a constant earnings. After listening to about instructing overseas, I went on-line and got here throughout EPIK (English Program in Korea), utilized in February of that very same yr, obtained accepted, and began in August.
To be sincere, I didn’t know a lot about life in Korea earlier than I moved there. I had a Korean good friend at my faculty in Ghana who launched me to Ok-dramas and different popular culture, however I hadn’t even been to Asia.
So I did my analysis, together with watching YouTube movies. Culturally, South Korea did not appear to be something I would skilled earlier than; life appeared so fast-paced, and there have been individuals attempting all types of meals I would by no means seen. What reassured me was seeing some Black individuals making content material about their experiences in South Korea, and I assumed in the event that they have been there, it’d be OK for me. Nonetheless, I joined native Korean lessons so I may perceive primary phrases and phrases earlier than I obtained there.
I lived in Ulsan, one of many largest cities in South Korea. A variety of foreigners are within the metropolis due to the Hyundai delivery dock, however they do not have a tendency to go to the realm the place I used to be staying. I don’t suppose I met another foreigners throughout my time there.
One of many first issues I seen was getting stares from the older era and actually younger youngsters. As soon as a man my age got here as much as me and stated, “Yo! Yo! Yo!” in a stereotypical American means. I needed to inform him I’m not American, and he appeared actually confused that I may very well be each Black and British.
Most of my college students have been superb. They’d come up and provides me hugs. However one time, a primary or second grader referred to as me “Africa Saram,” which suggests Africa particular person. Then, he referred to as me “dwaeji,” which is the Korean phrase for pig.
I used to be greatly surprised. I needed to inform his homeroom instructor. She was additionally a traveler, who spent a while in Australia, so she empathized and was upset by the habits. I appreciated that she took the time to elucidate to him why what he stated was not OK. He was so younger that it felt like a instructing second for him.
I spotted in a while I used to be one of many first Black individuals quite a lot of these college students have been assembly. Some would ask questions like, “Why is your palm lighter than the remainder of your pores and skin?” I’d say, “Why is yours not?” and use that to point out them there are numerous various kinds of individuals and pores and skin tones. Hopefully, they’re going to carry that on with them into the long run.
Throughout my travels round Asia, I’d get a lot of questions on my hair. It was a working theme as a result of I had braids. Within the Philippines, they’d ask if it was my actual hair and the way I styled it. In South Korea, it wasn’t essentially questions, however extra like, “Oh wow, your hair is so cool.” Most curious individuals who requested questions additionally touched my hair.
Sarah Toyin
Japan was fairly easy, however China was the place the place I obtained my image taken very often. In South Korea, they’d ask earlier than snapping a photograph, however in China, they didn’t ask. At first, I simply allow them to take photos, however after some time, it obtained to the purpose the place I needed to begin saying, “No, please.” At one level, I used to be in Hong Kong on the Causeway Bay seashore space with a good friend who’s white. Some vacationers from mainland China approached me and stated, “Image?” I stated, “Certain.” However ultimately, I had a queue. I did take some photos. My good friend instructed me to simply say “No,” but it surely was exhausting. Finally, I did should refuse—I wasn’t the vacationer attraction.
As soon as I used to be on a practice in South Korea when an older lady noticed me and appeared scared. I don’t suppose I’m scary—I’m 5-foot-1 and small. However she went to the opposite aspect of the practice. Then, one other aged lady approached me and stated, “Yeppeuda,” which suggests, “You’re very lovely.” She noticed what occurred and tried to rectify it, which was good of her. We had a pleasing little chat. That caught with me as a result of she didn’t should get entangled.
Reality be instructed, I expertise racism within the U.Ok. and Europe, too. If I did get stares in South Korea, it was extra out of curiosity than maliciousness. I had few experiences that felt deliberately disagreeable. Lots of people might not like being stared at or having somebody arising and touching their hair. I don’t need to say I obtained used to it, however I understood it was coming from a spot of curiosity. Once I was in a position to reply to their questions in Korean, we may have some conversations and that helped.
I am not fluent in Korean by any means, however after I was there, I made an effort to a minimum of be capable of have primary conversations. Koreans I met have been good about it, so even attempting to study the native language does make a distinction.
I don’t suppose most of the individuals I spoke to understood how I used to be British and Black on the similar time. Most individuals initially thought I used to be American. There are fewer Black Brits than Black Individuals, and it appeared like there was a better American presence in South Korea. After which, in fact, after I tried to elucidate that I’m Nigerian, individuals didn’t perceive. It was fascinating, to be sincere.
Regardless of all of it, when individuals ask me if they need to go to Asia, I am say, “Go!” 9 occasions out of 10, you’re going to have a great expertise. You do meet one or two individuals who might not be the nicest, and it is accountable to inform different vacationers about these encounters as effectively. My recommendation is to go surfing and take heed to quite a lot of tales about touring in Asia. You’ll hear about good and unhealthy experiences. As a Black traveler, the one time you actually do not need to go someplace is in the event you really feel like you are going to be harmed. Finally, how a lot negativity you face will depend on who you occur to fulfill. It is best to go and kind your individual opinion firsthand.
I liked my time in Asia and would do it once more. It was superb to have the ability to expertise one other tradition. After all, there have been occasions after I’d put a hoodie up, put my cap on, and simply attempt to mix in.
I went again to South Korea once more just lately. This time I used to be in Seoul, the place there are extra foreigners, particularly within the Itaewon neighborhood. They’re used to vacationers, so I didn’t really feel like I caught out as a lot.
Once I got here again to the U.Ok. after instructing, I used to be on the lookout for kimchi in every single place. At any time when my mates and I’d exit, I’d say, “Let’s go for Korean barbecue.” I’d even inform people who whereas our underground practice is nice and intensive, I knew it may very well be even higher after utilizing Korean transportation.
What I discovered about this expertise is the world is huge, and there are such a lot of completely different cultures you’ll be able to discover. Everybody lives in a novel means, and it is superb to find out about a brand new tradition, from its historical past to its meals. It’s all about seeing numerous methods of life and studying from new forms of individuals.