I had already been residing at sea for over a month aboard the Ocean Endeavour with Journey Canada once I first heard whispers a couple of very particular place. Deep within the coronary heart of Nunavut in Canada, there is without doubt one of the greatest wildlife spots within the Arctic: Coningham Bay within the Northwest Passage. By no means heard of it? Don’t fear, not many have.
Coningham Bay may appear like every other bay within the huge, sprawling tundra of the Arctic. Huge and desolate, it’s particular as a result of it has a slender, shallow entrance. Inside, the bay itself is fairly shallow. Beluga whales like to return contained in the bay and roll round within the shallows, scraping their pores and skin. However as a result of it’s very shallow at low tide, the belugas are trapped contained in the bay till the tide is available in once more.
Deliver on the hungry polar bears!
Once I first heard this, I nearly didn’t consider it. There’s a place the place polar bears hunt beluga whales? I used to be skeptical. That feels like some Planet Earth documentary, uncommon and unusual, not one thing folks often see.
Polar bears primarily hunt seals on the pack ice. Whereas I’ve seen polar bears within the wild many occasions, I’ve by no means seen them hunt a whale and even make a kill. Uncertain me was all like, “Can they even take down a beluga?” Perhaps an injured one or a calf, or possibly chow down as soon as it’s already useless and washed ashore.
Boy, was I fallacious.
At over 70° N, Coningham Bay isn’t straightforward to entry. Only a few folks will ever be fortunate sufficient to go to right here, and it’s often solely on the few expedition ships that make the complete journey by way of the Northwest Passage.
Even then, it’s not assured. Mom Nature guidelines the Arctic with an iron fist.
Expedition journey is sophisticated by many elements, particularly the climate. The swells of the water, the wind, the visibility, and the ocean ice all name the photographs. And, after all, polar bears and belugas maintain their very own schedules. We by no means know precisely the place they are going to be. There is perhaps none there and heaps somewhere else. It’s one of many causes I like exploring this manner.
It truly is an journey. It truly is an expedition. We’ve got to look and discover to seek out the superb locations. And hope that the place the place polar bears hunt beluga whales delivers.
Bundled up in 1,000,000 layers, it was a sunny morning after we approached Coningham Bay on Journey Canada’s Out of the Northwest Passage journey.
September within the Arctic is already full autumn, with snow simply starting to fall. Earlier than we even arrived close to Coningham Bay, we bought the decision over the radio that we may already spot greater than a dozen bears within the space. Holy shit!
I used to be so excited, much more excited than common. Hanging out on the outer decks with my binoculars glued to my face, the suspense was killing me. I couldn’t wait til it was my flip within the zodiac to exit and see the bears.
I’ll additionally point out that we comply with the AECO tips for wildlife, together with polar bears and whales: not approaching them, conserving a secure distance, by no means disturbing them, and so on. Journey Canada additionally has a stable group of skilled polar bear guards who include deterrents and firearms; lots of them are native Inuit. However don’t fret; it nearly by no means occurs that conditions escalate to that.
Virtually as quickly as we piled within the zodiac on the gangway, we started to see wildlife. Out of nowhere, a narwhal popped up proper subsequent to us within the shallows. Sea unicorn, omg!!! It simply rolled round within the water subsequent to us for ages. The water was practically crystal clear, trying nearly Mediterranean. You might see straight to the underside, although ice chilly.
Zooming by way of the shallow entrance, Coningham Bay greeted us with a couple of dozen polar bears dotted throughout. Mother and cubs. Massive boys. Swimming bears. Even a freshly useless bear. And there have been beluga splashing round, too. There have been so many bears, often solitary, simply hanging round, unbothered by one another. There was sufficient meals to go round. It’s exhausting to not need to pull sides – who do you root for? The bear or beluga?
And certain sufficient, we hit the motherload. There was a mother with two cubs feasting on a useless whale. As a photographer and storyteller who loves wildlife, seeing issues in motion is so thrilling. I’ve been on just a few safaris in Africa, and probably the most thrilling viewings are when a predator is looking. I do know that is morbid, however seeing bears lined in gore was wild and unforgettable.
Watching the polar bears and belugas of Coningham Bay ranks amongst my greatest wildlife experiences. I’ll by no means, ever overlook that day.
Many because of Journey Canada for internet hosting me within the Arctic. As all the time, I’m conserving it actual—all opinions are my very own, and you may count on much less from me!