19 km grade 3 stroll linking Wentworth Falls to Katoomba
Heralded as a ‘new’ stroll, the Grand Cliff High Stroll is an easy-to-follow grade 3 observe alongside the Jamison Valley escarpment, on Gundungurra Nation, that has been shaped by linking outdated tracks identified to us locals (and those that can learn maps) for years. Lots of the sections are a part of my day by day walks, so when Nice Walks Journal requested me to jot down an article in regards to the rebranded route, I knew I needed to expertise it by means of contemporary eyes and in a brand new (to me) manner: over the NPWS beneficial two days.
On this model of the article, I’ve included extra particulars on the logistics, with hyperlinks to beneficial lodging, experiences and meals choices. Huge due to all of the native companies and individuals who supported this journey by means of Blue Mountains Tourism and to my fellow walker, Briar (she of the blue shirt) who can also be writing about it for different journey publications. Checkout my Insta Reel – 2 days in 90 secs!
Day 1 // Wentworth Falls to Leura – 11km
Because the 8.12 am prepare from Central lumbers into Wentworth Falls Station, faculty college students shoulder heavy backpacks for his or her day forward. Swinging mine into place, relieved to really feel the floatiness that comes from a lightweight day pack, there’s a jaunt in my step as I make my manner beside the fantastically dressed store home windows of this tidy Blue Mountains village.
With a bag like this and 19 km of grade 3 observe forward of me, it’s exhausting to imagine I’m within the Better Blue Mountains World Heritage Space with all the things I want for the subsequent two days.
Certain, I’ve obtained the ordinary suspects like a primary support package, sunscreen, water and a raincoat on board, however not even my favorite selfmade scroggin made the lower. The one barely uncommon addition is a spare pair of underwear, PJs, cossie and my toothbrush.
That is inn-to-inn strolling at its finest.
The idea is easy: Hike in the course of the day carrying simply the necessities, then eat, drink, sleep and calm down within the villages alongside the best way. No tent, no sleeping bag and no heavy pack.
This traditional European type of multi-day mountaineering, like a Camino (or pub-to-pub within the UK for a distinct sort of non secular expertise), is what makes the brand new (however very outdated) Grand Cliff High Stroll (GCTW) distinctive within the Blue Mountains. Historically a area that requires self-sufficiency with full packs for in a single day walks, the GCTW welcomes hikers who get pleasure from exploring native communities together with the pure surroundings and the comforts of vacationer lodging.
Assembly my pal exterior Fed Cafe, we seize a superb espresso and wholesome takeaway lunch for the day. I’m impressed by the hiker-friendly snacks on provide reminiscent of rolled oat and white chocolate cookies or fig and nut slice—these is likely to be higher than my scroggin!
My native data tells me this stroll traverses the undulating clifflines alongside the northern escarpment of the Jamison Valley; crossing waterfalls, cascades and lookouts steeped in countless, yawning views. Who is aware of the place starvation will interrupt our steps? I higher purchase two.
Crossing the Nice Western Freeway and turning down Falls Street, we arrive on the official begin of our journey – Wilson Park Picnic Space.
Getting into by means of the sandstone gates, there may be good interpretive signage to learn earlier than urgent onto this primary part of the observe, also referred to as Darwins Stroll. [Read this excellent article by another writer mate (and lauded outdoor guide up here, Dan Lewis, about why Charles Darwin’s name is lent to this track.]
It’s right here that we spy the primary black cockatoo. In contrast to most conferences with this well-known Blue Mountains native, this one isn’t preceded by the tell-tale squeaky door screech or yellow-feathered tail flash as they take to the skies. And though science has debunked the parable that they’re the soothsayers of unhealthy climate, the ponderous sky above foresees in any other case.
This cockatoo — the fashionable emblem of the observe, designed by native Gundungurra artist, Kelsie King (daughter of Uncle David King)— predicts simple navigation with manner markers and arrows at key junctions.
Vacationers have been strolling tracks on this space for practically 150 years. It’s a part of an enormous labyrinthine community of trails, some that date again to the late 1800’s work of grasp trackmaker and Irish immigrant, Peter Mulheran, the primary ranger for what was then referred to as the Wentworth Falls Reserve.
Only some okay’s in and his affect is seen alongside the route in low stone partitions, paying homage to conventional Irish farm fences and stone water wells resembling pizza ovens. It doesn’t take a lot creativeness to image girls in lengthy frocks and ample petticoats, together with gents in stiff woollen fits, pausing on their amble to scoop water with a metal cup left behind for the general public’s comfort. There’s nonetheless crystal clear water on this properly as we speak, however as with every water alongside this observe, you have to deal with it first.
It’s with the ghosts of Peter, the next hundreds of thousands of vacationers who got here to ‘take the mountain air’ and the hundreds of years of Gundungurra folks’s historical past, that my pal and I step out on this various and wonder-filled Nation.
A lot has modified since Peter spent years toiling on these tracks, weathered by the seasons and situations. In the present day’s track-building methods draw from a better understanding of abrasion and the movement of water, the emergence of launched English-style gardens within the cities above that carry seeds and invasive species into the dear Nationwide Park and the impacts of Sydney’s inhabitants, pushing 6 million folks, simply an hour and a half away.
That is my yard, my residence. I’ve the posh of realizing the best way to hyperlink tracks, shortcuts and lookouts into one elegant journey, making it as lengthy or brief as I would like. And herein lies the true nub of this joint NSW Nationwide Parks and Wildlife Service and Blue Mountains Metropolis Council initiative: linking collectively the earlier maze of historic tracks into one streamlined, cohesive journey—made simple to comply with by an iconic black cockatoo emblem and signage.
So in case you’ve ever wandered alongside sections of the Prince Henry Cliff Stroll, Three Sisters Observe, Katoomba Falls Reserve Evening Lit Stroll or Katoomba Cascades (Katoomba); the Charles Darwin Stroll, Below Cliff, Over Cliff, Princes Rock Observe, Wentworth Falls Observe, Valley of the Waters Observe (Wentworth Falls), Pool of Siloam Observe (Leura), … you’ve already ventured onto the Grand Cliff High Stroll!
I like to consider it just like the elements of an excellent recipe; every one bringing totally different flavours, textures, colors and moods, but making a harmonious, single dish. A hearty, tasty minestrone of strolling tracks with a smorgasbord of lookouts, packaged up in a well-balanced path.
Mild rain surrounded us as we took within the first (of many!) must-see brief aspect journeys to Fletchers Lookout. One in every of my favourites, this spot means that you can look down over the spectacular 187m drop of Wentworth Falls.
The roar by means of the mist under us felt just like the revving of our strolling engines and marked the primary of 4 key waterfalls that dissect the route: Wentworth Falls, Gordon Falls (50m), Bridle Veil Falls (55m) and Katoomba Falls (230m).
Off we go and the cockatoo reveals us the best way alongside sturdy sandstone stairs, pure earthen observe and stepping stones as we peer by means of the curtains of cloud that swirl round us.
By addressing the degraded and badly eroded sections of the outdated observe, the undertaking has homogenised tough sections of the terrain so it now sits comfortably inside grade 3.
Taking our time to plunge deeper into the dripping rainforest side-trip to Den Fenella Falls, we arrive on the Conservation Hut Cafe for morning tea. Buoyed by espresso #2 and a cheeky cake, I began to suppose I may get used to this type of strolling!
Crossing the highest of Empress Falls, to the ‘woohoo!’ of canyoners under, the observe shimmies by means of dry sclerophyll and allo-casuarinas (pay attention out for these hungry black cockatoos!) behind the Fairmont Resort and Leura Golf Course. From right here, our pal, the cockatoo, flew us alongside the 1.3 km part of street, previous spectacular native properties to land us again within the Nationwide Park and heading for lunch.
With clouds closing in on us, we lastly succumb to raincoats. The sandstone faces of small cliffs tried to influence us to shelter for a dry lunch, however Briar humoured me to press on for lunch at certainly one of Leura’s favorite delights—The Pool of Siloam. Right here, we rested and indulged within the takeaway lunch we purchased earlier from Fed.
Day trippers appeared, signalling that we had been nearing the top of Day 1. Certain sufficient, it was solely 400 metres later that we emerged at Gordon Falls Reserve and started the mild 1.6 km uphill stroll in direction of our lodging, dinner and particular end-of-day expertise at Blue Mountains Sauna.
This little piece of Finland, hidden behind Leura Mall, is the place you’ll discover 90c temps (adopted by a chilly plunge) to be the right tonic in your bushwalking physique. You’ll have to pack your cossie except you go for one of many clothes non-compulsory periods (you possibly can lease towels and robes) and my sizzling tip is to ebook and full the waiver on-line prematurely. It’s a brilliant chill vibe and an excellent place to sit down and ponder all you’ve seen in the course of the day earlier than heading for dinner and lodging.
Out into the cool night time air, our our bodies nonetheless heat and tingling from the sauna, it was solely one other 500 m across the nook to the luxe alternative of the 2 lodging choices we’d expertise this journey: Varenna by Mountain Whispers. This big 1906 Edwardian guesthouse, can accommodate 8 folks over 4 bedrooms, 2 of which have 4-poster beds. That is traditional, old-world mountains boujie lodging at its finest—excellent for a bunch of pals who like a couple of tasteful doilies and brass fittings. Proprietor Lorraine has considered all the things and has impeccable consideration to element, renovating and restoring 5 totally different mountain properties, that faucet into these, ‘cosy-by-the-fire-sunken-couch’ vibes. The property additionally has a washer (each walker’s dream!). spa tub and gardens big sufficient to host a Scout jamboree.
Oh sure, expensive pals… THIS is inn-to-inn strolling: sizzling bathe, scrumptious restaurant meal and dying by consolation – mountain guesthouse type.
Now, onto that meal… throughout the railway, 350 m away from Varenna is life-changing Korean BBQ restaurant, Jiggle. Korean born Jay and his Aussie spouse Hannah are obsessed with bringing conventional Korean flavours, by means of the recipes of his household and childhood, to the Blue Mountains. I learnt a lot by having Hannah cook dinner for us on the desk, most significantly, {that a} signal of a great meal and delight in Korea is a full desk. My sizzling ideas are the wagyu, fried rooster and taking their recommendation on the best way to construct the right lettuce wrap. Oh and go simple on the soju… soju… so good.
Day 2 // Leura to Katoomba – 8km
Day 2 bursts into sunshine and the primary of two breakfasts—perhaps I’m a Hobbit? That is shaping as much as be a significantly culinarily indulgent stroll.
Varenna supplies a full breakfast on a visitor’s first night time, however our tummies and caffeine ranges had been calling us a block away at Sparrows Cafe, the place another person would cook dinner. A favorite with locals, Sparrows is the dream of former native maths trainer Josh and Jess. Identified for his or her wonderful espresso (Little Marionette) and good meals, in addition they do an enormous vary of takeaway objects appropriate for a day’s hike. In the event you sit out the entrance, you’ll in all probability end up chatting with a neighborhood and their canine.
Us hobbits had different plans for lunch although and had been a few of the first to style the GCTW packed lunch field providing from Blue Mountains restaurant stalwart, Bunker. Simply reverse Jiggle, we got instructions to return across the again to the kitchen door to gather what turned out to be a large providing! This field may have fed us for a whole day. Nom, nom, nom. These treasure chests of tasty morsels should be ordered prematurely, however are excellent for a simple seize n’ go day 2.
Again by means of the leafy streets to Gordon Falls and the wealthy, moody moments of yesterday’s skies have disappeared just like the chocolate left on my pillow. Throwing again the cloudy curtains to disclose the unmistakable grandeur of the Jamison Valley it’s exhausting to maintain our eyes on the observe, with Mount Solitary, Kings Tableland and Narrowneck wooing us on our left as we proceed to move west.
Tarpeian Rock (named after the 25m excessive rock in historical Rome the place probably the most unsavoury of sorts had been flung to their deaths) is our first aspect journey for as we speak; its rippled rocks betray the traditional underwater story that continues to carve the sandstone of the Blue Mountains to this present day. Dragging ourselves away, I enjoyment of sharing Bridal Veil View Lookout (to not be confused with Bridal Veil Lookout) with my pal:
‘It kinda provides you a drone’s perspective of Bridal Veil Falls’.
Me making an attempt to explain the distinctive angle of Bridal Veil View Lookout
Powered by yesterday’s rain, the side is greater than definitely worth the brief steep metallic stairs and the 200m (one-way) offshoot. I’m certain our cockatoo pal gained’t thoughts.
Graciously, the observe drew us onwards and alongside the well-known Leura Cascades, singing to us as we rounded the highest of the falls, and onto our tasty packed lunch within the gown circle at Bridal Veil Lookout.
It’s alongside the subsequent 5 km to the observe finish at Scenic World, that anybody accustomed to the Prince Henry Cliff Stroll, will really feel proper at residence. Meandering out and in of spurs and gullies, but staying comfortably at across the identical elevation, the Grand Cliff High Stroll strikes alongside by means of areas common with lyrebirds and bower birds. Late afternoons (or early mornings) are a deal with for the total refrain as you duck out and in of myriad small lookouts and viewpoints.
Listen and don’t miss the grand dames of the Three Sisters by taking the sidetrack to the favored Girl Recreation Lookout, Honeymoon Bridge or the quieter (and my choose), Spooners Lookout.
We’re on the house stretch now, with round 2km to go (is it too early to toast ourselves at Bar NSW at The Lookout (the very best bar view in Katoomba), however there’s nonetheless one key waterfall to soak up and it’s the largest of all of them: Katoomba Falls! Finest considered from Katoomba Falls Lookout (100m aspect journey to Reids Plateau) and time to pause and replicate on the final two days and practically 20km of observe.
From right here, it’s a simple ramble into the Scenic World forecourt and bus cease the place in case you arrive in time you possibly can hop on the 686 bus or for the total vacationer expertise and attention-grabbing commentary, hop on the pink Explorer bus.
Our planning fairy had different plans although and we discovered ourselves celebrating the top of the stroll with but extra of the Blue Mountains nice hospitality.
Did somebody say, Gin?
Held inside the embrace of the lobby at Katoomba’s outdated Savoy Theatre, pushing all of the swish and kitsch artwork deco buttons, is Katoomba Avenue’s Gin Parlour. A partnership between the Blue Mountains Gin Firm and the Avalon Restaurant upstairs, (the place you may refuel with classics like sluggish roasted lamb, baked Atlantic salmon or confit duck), this whimsical venue supplies prohibition period styling, stay music and a stable providing of gin (and different) cocktails. My suggestion: go for the gin flight: a tasting of 4 gins (my choose is the Black Label), matched with garnishes and educated commentary from 50’s glamour-girl, Helen. [I wish I could style like she can!].
Feeling oh-so-relaxed after that wind-down and in determined want of a bathe, it’s an excellent factor that my cosy mattress for the night time is all downhill from right here at my favorite price range keep within the Mountains—No. 14 Lovel Avenue—simply 550 m away.
Annette and Gavin have poured their coronary heart and soul into this circa 1913 charmer, simply an 8 minute stroll from Katoomba Station. Loaded with cosy nooks for quiet moments (there’s no TV), I headed upstairs to the lovable dormer windowed room, whereas Briar luxuriated in her ensuite room downstairs. That is the right place for teams, households or bushwalking golf equipment and importantly, Annette gives pre-booked visitor transport & gear transfers for the Grand Cliff High Stroll. Giddyup I say! That is the unbiased walkers’ dream: catch public transport and have somebody take your luggage, then choose you up/drop you off. Oh and in case you wanted another excuse to remain right here, then you possibly can strive 10% off with low cost code: LOTSAFRESHAIR.
Day 3 // Katoomba to residence
Given the quantity of excellent meals and drinks we’ve imbibed during the last 2 days, one could possibly be forgiven for considering we don’t want breakfast. However when my favorite native brekky is on the best way residence, how may I not cease by Tempus Up Early for my beloved hash brown. Now, I do know what you’re considering:
Critically, Caro, I do know there’s no Maccas on this a part of the world, however hash brown?
~ Stated everybody who hasn’t tried these
I’m betraying myself (but once more), as I’ll or could not have been quoted in this text; however I’ll say it once more… I’m ruined for all times. That, and the immense heat hospitality proven by Louise (she’s a path runner, so hit her up for concepts) and her group with their love of meals. She is a wizard on the machine, slinging Little Marionette brews that at all times hit the precise stability, served in earthy-feel crockery that’ll have you ever ordering one other.
Transport
Formally, the GCTW is linked with public transport (Wentworth Falls Station to Katoomba Station through 19 km bushwalk and bus), however consideration must be paid to the #686 bus timetables that join the top of the stroll at Scenic World to Katoomba Station. One more reason to consider staying someplace that may help with bag and physique transfers. Lookin’ at you No. 14 ;).
Taxi
Uber
Good luck. We don’t actually do Uber up right here. On a great day, you may get one.
Caro’s different Blue Mountains meals suggestions
- KATOOMBA // The Bowery, Elysian, Cedar Kebabs, 8 Issues, Black Cockatoo, Cassiopeaia, Sushi & Co, Tempus, Station Bar, Basil Nut, Rustico, Sanwiye, Pho Moi, Mountain Tradition Brewery, Aunty Eds. (With so many choices, there’s actually no have to assist the Yellow Deli).
- LEURA // Crimson Door Cafe, Mr Collins, Lily’s Pad.
- WENTWORTH FALLS // Bahn Me, soups and Asian groceries @ The Laughing Elephant, Cassiopeia