The Lengthy Crossing of Norway’s Lofoten Islands

Simply off the coast of northern Norway within the Arctic Circle lies a legendary archipelago by the identify of Lofoten. A mixture of deep fjords, windswept seashores, jagged peaks and picture-postcard villages, its staggering magnificence has lengthy been celebrated in artwork and literature, and in more moderen occasions, seemingly each second panorama photographer’s Instagram account. Whereas its unparalleled magnificence is not at all a secret, there may be nonetheless a option to escape a lot of the crowds and expertise the Lofoten’s wonders in comparative solitude. It’s referred to as the Lengthy Crossing – a 160 km (99 mi) mountaineering route by way of the spectacular coronary heart of the island chain. 

Greg “Malto” Gressel and I hiked the whole Lengthy Crossing (plus aspect journeys) over seven days in late September 2018. Click on right here for an in depth gear checklist from the journey.

At a Look

Origins – The thought for the “Lengthy Crossing” is from the group at Rando-Lofoten. This glorious web site is a goldmine for all issues mountaineering within the archipelago.

Distance (11 Phases):  160 km (99.4 mi) –  Our seven-day journey ended up being roughly 190 – 200 km (118 – 124 mi), as we additionally included aspect journeys, some connector highway walks, and most notably an overland hyperlink between phases 9 and 10 (see Alternates for particulars)

Common Period:  11 days. 

Problem Degree:  Average to tough

Begin / End:

• Village of Å (south)
• Delp (north)

Which Course?:  I don’t assume it makes a lot of a distinction. The Rando-Lofoten website describes the hike from north to south, nevertheless, we selected to go the opposite route. Why? Just because it labored out higher for us with the ferry schedule from Bodø (See Getting There & Away).

Whole Elevation Acquire: 9,193 m (30,161 ft)

Highest Level: 1,029 m (3,376 ft) – The summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak – a not-to-be-missed aspect journey from the primary route throughout stage 10.

Lowest Level: Sea degree.

Getting There & Away:

• Accessing the Lofoten Islands: The principal gateway to the Lofotens is the city of Bodø, which is serviced by day by day flights from Oslo. From Bodø you possibly can catch one of many common ferries to both Svolvaer (closest city to the northern terminus) or Moskenes harbour (closest entry level to the southern terminus). See torghatten-nord.no for ferry info.

• Village of Å (southern terminus): From Moskenes harbour its a mild 5km (3.1 mi) highway stroll alongside the E10 to/from the southern terminus in Å. Alternatively, you possibly can take bus #18-742. See reisnordland.no for bus info. 

•  Delp: In keeping with Rando-Lofoten web site: “Take line 18-749 from Svolvær in route of Liland, cease at Jordness Kryss (20 min). Wait there and take the bus 18-733 in route of Laukvik, then cease at Straumsnes Vest. Stroll till the beginning (or end) of the hike.” For bus occasions, see reisnordland.no.

• For an informative overview of transport choices for the Lofoten Islands, try the superb 68north.com.
  

  Wanting eastward over Agvatnet in the direction of the Village of Å / Stage 11.

Season:

• Mid-June to late September. 

• Malto and I selected to do the hike in late September/early October. This meant shorter days and an elevated likelihood of precipitation, nevertheless, we determined it was price it for the potential of seeing the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). It turned out we had been fortunate on each counts. We had advantageous climate for roughly six out of the seven days, and had been handled to Mom Nature’s mesmerizing gentle present through the remaining couple of nights of the journey. 

Planning Data 

• GPS Information: GPS data for all 11 phases will be discovered on the Rando-Lofoten web site. We printed out maps for the route, along with having the GPX observe on our telephones (Gaia GPS app). Word: See the Route / Situations part beneath for info on our overland hyperlink between Phases 9 and 10

• Overview Map: Other than the stage maps talked about above, we additionally carried a 1:100,000 overview map (#2549) of the Lofotens from Turkart. This widespread sheet is extensively accessible in bookshops, outside shops and vacationer workplaces in Bodø and the Lofoten Islands.

• Guidebooks : We made do with the aforementioned gadgets together with some fundamental planning info listed on the Rando-Lofoten website. For people in search of one thing extra, Rando-Lofoten have put out a paperback guidebook – Mountain climbing within the Lofoten Islands – which incorporates detailed trekking notes for the route, along with beta on greater than 60 day hikes all through the archipelago.

• Extra Basic Data: I had a Kindle model of Lonely Planet’s newest Norway journey guidebook on my cellphone.

• On-line Beta: Other than Rando-Lofoten, probably the greatest sources for exploring the archipelago on foot is Cody Duncan’s wonderful web site, 68north.com. Other than helpful logistical info, Duncan’s pictures are among the many finest I’ve seen from the storied archipelago. They’re so good the truth is, that a few of them are featured within the second of my Wanderlust books, The Hidden Tracks!

• Permits: No permits are required to hike within the Lofoten Islands.

• Language:  Norwegian. With the attainable exception of parents which can be over 60, just about everybody you meet within the islands speaks English. That mentioned, as an indication of respect on your hosts I extremely suggest studying some fundamental pleasantries within the native tongue.

• Cell/Cell Protection: There may be protection in all the villages, and a lot of the route’s excessive factors.

• Lengthy Crossing Planning Abstract: I’d suggest the next course: 1. Learn by way of this text; 2. Obtain the GPS data from Rando-Lofoten; 3. Contemplate selecting up their guidebook; 4. Try Coby Duncan’s web site for visible inspiration, and; 5. Upon arrival in Bodo, buy the 1:100,000 overview map listed above (or order on-line earlier than you go).

• Gear Checklist: Click on right here for an in depth gear checklist from the journey.

Resupply & Water:

• Resupply:  You gained’t go hungry on the Lengthy Crossing. We by no means needed to carry greater than a day or two’s meals at anybody time. See the stage summaries on the Rando-Lofoten web site (or guidebook) for resupply particulars. Throughout our seven day hike we picked up meals on the following places: Stage 2 – Sandsletta Tenting (restaurant / store); Stage 5 – Leknes (city); Stage 6 – Nusfjord village; Stage 7 – Ramberg village; Stage 9 – Vindstad (common ferry service to scenic village of Reine, which has a number of meals and lodging choices); Stage 11 – Village of Å.

• Water:  Ample. We by no means needed to carry multiple or two liters at anybody time. On the purification entrance, neither of us handled water through the hike, nor did we expertise any intestinal points.

Route Notes:

Overview:

The Lengthy Crossing of the Lofotens is one among Europe’s most spectacular trails – a mixture of yawning fjords, hidden coves, serrated peaks and vibrant fishing villages. Though for probably the most half unmarked, in clear climate the route isn’t tough to observe as there are many distinctive pure options that act as reference factors for orientation. It may be a unique story when its wet and foggy, so make sure you maintain observe of your location always. Terrain-wise the going is usually steep, muddy and uncovered, however the otherworldly vistas present greater than ample compensation on your efforts.   

How Lengthy will it take?:

Within the “At a Look” part above, I point out that the typical Lengthy Crossing hiker will take 11 days to finish the route. That is the time urged on the Rando-Lofoten web site, and I believe it’s roughly on the cash for most people. Nevertheless, as is the case with nearly all multi-day treks, the period of time wanted to finish the Lengthy Crossing can differ tremendously relying on various elements. Match and skilled hikers which can be carrying a lightweight pack and who’ve an honest run with the climate, can comfortably do the the route in seven to 9 days with loads of time leftover for aspect journeys.

Highlights:

My favorite phases on the AV1 had been as follows:

• • Stage 1 –  Delp to Sandsletta – That includes a spectacular and really uncovered ridge stroll north of Matmora Peak.
  • Stage 9 – Selfjord Bay to Forsfjorden Fjord – Together with the aspect journey to Horseid Seashore. Be sure you go for a dip within the Arctic waters!
  • Stage 10 – Forsfjorden to the village of Å – That includes a aspect journey to the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak, which affords arguably the best 360° panorama in the whole archipelago.
  • Stage 11 – Out and again throughout the island from the Village of Å, by way of Agvatnet and Stokkvikvatnet lakes.

Lowlights: 

Out of geographic necessity, there may be some roadwalking concerned on just a few of the phases. It’s attainable to hitch or take buses throughout these sections (see Rando-Lofoten stage descriptions for particulars), nevertheless, we determined to hike them excluding the phase between Napp and Leknes (which features a non-pedestrian tunnel that goes underneath the ocean). Though strolling on pavement isn’t best, we didn’t encounter an excessive amount of in the best way of visitors, and there was typically a reasonably broad shoulder in order that it by no means felt harmful.

Alternates

Other than worthy aspect journeys to Hermannsdalstinden Peak, Helvetestinden Peak and Horseid Seashore, there have been two principal factors at which we diverged from the usual Lengthy Crossing route: 

Stage 2 & 3 – Olderfjorden 

The route described on Rando-Lofoten swings south towards the city of Svolvaer. As we had been already carrying ample provides, we determined to take the trail much less travelled from the junction on the finish of Olderfjorden (68°15.7872’N, 14°23.2307’E). From this level we continued ENE up the valley. The path was boggy, soggy, overgrown and disappeared and reappeared with regularity. All that mentioned, the surroundings was spectacular and it proved to be an enjoyably difficult part. We linked again as much as the usual route at Bothnvatnet lake (68°17.2426’N,  14°30.2077’E).

Overland Hyperlink between Phases 9 and 10: 

The parents at Rando-Lofoten counsel you’re taking the ferry between Kjerkfjorden and Forsfjorden. This is because of a steep, and probably harmful stretch positioned between Vindstad and Kjerkfjord. Though I fully perceive their omission, each Malto and I are very skilled in technical terrain, so we determined to research the part for ourselves.

The particular phase the Rando-Lofoten group are referring to begins on the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak (a must-do aspect journey). It’s undeniably precipitous in elements and in moist climate could possibly be extraordinarily slippery. Nevertheless, in case you are sure-footed, have head for heights and are carrying a light-weight load, I believe it’s throughout the capabilities of most robust and seasoned backpackers. Mountain climbing from Vindstad to Kjerkfjord, you’ll start dropping from the saddle at 67°58.6197’N, 12°59.7817’E, and descend in a NE route, ultimately reaching flat floor at round 67°58.8192’N, 13°0.2269’E.  For a lot of the best way down there’s a faint path that’s sporadically cairned.

Though I personally didn’t discover this part to be overly tough, Rando-Lofoten don’t suggest it for a cause. The sheer and rugged nature of the terrain signifies that it’s appropriate just for seasoned hikers in advantageous climate. Earlier than deciding to present it a strive, take into account whether or not or not you’ve the requisite expertise. For those who aren’t positive, take the ferry.

Word that the second a part of the connector part linking phases 9 and 10 is a totally totally different story. Stretching between Vindstad and the facility station at Forsfjorden, this phase consists of a simple to observe, undulating path which skirts the japanese aspect of the fjord. It’s appropriate for hikers of all ranges of expertise.

Sleeping

Wild tenting is feasible all through the Lengthy Crossing. Throughout our week lengthy journey, we camped out each evening besides one; an unplanned aspect journey to the picturesque village of Reine. To get there, we took one of many twice day by day ferries from Vindstad. For lodging choices in villages alongside the best way, see the Rando-Lofoten web site or try up-to-date choices on Reserving.com. 

Last Musings from the Lengthy Crossing

Solitude within the Lofotens

By any standards the Lofoten Islands is likely one of the most terribly lovely locations on the planet. It’s subsequently no shock that lately its recognition has began to growth. However as is the case with different well-known pure wonders such because the Grand Canyon and Yosemite Nationwide Park, backpacking gives a option to escape the crowds and luxuriate in a excessive diploma of solitude. Through the Lengthy Crossing there have been occasions after we noticed different vacationers – Bunes seashore, the Village of Å and Munken come to thoughts – nevertheless, for probably the most half we had the path to ourselves. And that in a nutshell seashell is likely one of the issues that I’ve at all times cherished about mountaineering – with somewhat further effort it’s attainable to extricate your self from the overwhelmed observe, and discover quiet and peaceable moments even in among the earth’s hottest wilderness corners.

Norway’s Cod Capital

All through the Lengthy Crossing you will notice cod drying racks in a lot of the villages. A few years earlier than it grew to become a mecca for nature loving vacationers, the Lofoten Islands performed an vital position in Norway’s fishing business. For greater than a millennium it has been the centre of nation’s profitable cod fisheries. A job that’s of specific significance through the colder months, when cod migrate south from the Barents sea and are available to the hotter waters of the Lofotens so as to spawn.

A Thermal Anomaly

Because of the above-mentioned heat currents of the Gulf Stream, the Lofoten Islands experiences a comparatively delicate oceanic local weather. Regardless of it mendacity at the same latitude to locations reminiscent of Alaska and Greenland, common winter and summer season temperatures within the archipelago are a relatively balmy 1°C (33.8°F) and 13°C (55.4°F) respectively.

Publish-hike Aspect Journey – The Mosktraumen  

Positioned simply off the Lofoten archipelago is a singular system of tidal eddies and whirlpools often known as the Moskstraumen (or maelstrom). Over the centuries this hydrological phenomena has been featured in numerous basic literary tales together with Jules Verne’s, “Twenty Thousand Leagues Beneath the Sea” and Edgar Allen Poe’s brief story, “A Descent into the Maelstrom.” What units the legendary Moskstraumen aside from most different whirlpools is its power – it’s the second strongest of its sort on this planet – plus the truth that it happens in open sea, fairly than in a river or strait.

Malto 

I’ll end this publish with a shout-out to my good good friend and mountaineering associate on the Lengthy Crossing, Greg “Malto” Gressel. Since assembly on the Appalachian Path in November, 2012, Malto and I’ve finished a bunch of various mountaineering journeys collectively together with the Lowest to Highest Route, Wonderland Path, Northville Placid Path and the Wind River Excessive Route. Most of those journeys had been finished exterior of normal mountaineering season home windows, and as a consequence we’ve sometimes encountered some pretty difficult climate (see photos beneath). Regardless of the meteorological obstacles and a gag-worthy path weight-reduction plan of spam and maltodextrin, Malto has at all times remained singularly upbeat and barely appears to put on down regardless of the circumstances. It’s particularly spectacular when you think about he simply celebrated his eighty fifth birthday. Thanks for an additional nice hike, mate!

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